The Palaces of Mysore are grand and surrounded by very pleasant gardens. Definitely worth a day trip if passing through some of the big nearby cities like Bangalore, I’m just a bit surprised, considering the main Mysore Palace is the second most visited sight in all of India only behind the Taj Mahal, that they manage to attract quite so much attention
Very brief review this time as it was years ago that I visited
Jaipur is part of India’s classical Golden Triangle route and represents the natural gateway into the gem that is the state of Rajasthan. For sure it is nice walking through the chaotic pink city with monkeys jumping everywhere, visiting the nearby Amber Fort and you’ll naturally pass through Jaipur as part of any visit to this part of India. But . . . I wouldn’t say it is a highlight and you shouldn’t prioritise it over the real Rajasthan highlights of Jodphur, Jaisalmer or Udaipur
Just outside of Agra, which tends to be the highlight visit for most people visiting this part of India as they get to see the Taj Mahal, is the very underrated and magnificent fortified ancient city of Fatehphur Sikri. The sight, which was the former capital of the Mughal Empire and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, dominated nearly all of South Asia for almost 200 years before the arrival of the British, includes 3 palaces and a mosque all with gorgeous architecture and without the crowds of some of the main Indian sites
Give it a go for a day trip from Agra, or simply replace Jaipur with Fatehphur Sikri in your itinerary for the Golden Triangle. I actually recommend this along with 5 other changes in my travel entry for India’s Golden Triangle – getting the most out of it
The Golden Triangle is viewed as the classical India trip – fly into the nation’s capital of Delhi, then to the country’s most famous site of the Taj Mahal, dip your toe in the highlight state of Rajasthan in the Pink City of Jaipur, and then a short ride back to Delhi. All sites within around 200km / 125miles of each other, a very relaxed week-long itinerary or a rapid 4/5 days. It will certainly give you a feel of India . . . BUT . . . it’s only major downside is that it only really includes one highlight of India and that is the Taj Mahal. Delhi is a big dirty Indian city that I would struggle to put in a highlights reel of India and Jaipur, whilst nice to wander around the Pink City and visit the Amber Fort, is a far distant second to the outstanding highlights of the wonderful Rajasthan (Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Udaipur in particular)
My suggestions to enjoy your week in this part of India:
That view of the the bright white memorial of Jaswant Thada, with Mehrangarh Fort and the blue city of Jodphur peering out in the background must be one of the most dramatic in all of India and evokes that immediate reaction of WHERE IS THAT???!!! Once you’ve put it on your must-see-list and actually made the trip to Jodphur, you won’t be disappointed. The stunning views along with that exotic vibe of the Rajasthan desert make this one of the unmissable highlights of India
Top tip #1 – you’ll naturally visit the fort for its beautiful internal architecture and amazing views, but few people make the relatively short (500m / 0.3mile) walk north to the Jaswant Thada memorial. Its far less busy and the views of the fort in the background are sublime
Top tip #2 – similarly, you’ll also naturally stay around the Old Blue City area Makrana Mohalla where most of the hotels and hostels are and the general hustle and bustle, but also make sure to wander around the Navchokiya area of the old town which has the same pleasant vibe, but not quite as busy. You can access it from the fort via walking through the gorgeous Rajput Garden and exiting at the Victory Gate
Top Tip #3 – be sure to book a place to stay with an accessible roof for views of the fort, especially in the evening. There’s something quite magical about looking over the brutal looking fortifications as the sounds of evening kick in and you can see the Old Town wind down in the streets below. The place we stayed at has long closed down, but the Pal Haveli had a wonderful rooftop restaurant which you can enjoy whether a guest or not
The golden temple itself, and the complex it forms part of, is impressive – gleaming marble paths, the exotic architecture of the surrounding buildings, and with the golden temple of 750kg gold sitting in the middle of a central lake. But it is the overall experience of being so openly welcomed and very much part of this most sacred pilgrimage for thousands of Sikhs as you wash, eat and move en masse through their holiest site that makes this such a unique and unmissable experience
It’s very simple to join in. Simply rock up any time, no entrance fee, just take off your shoes and socks, wash your feet and borrow a head scarf that they provide. Then follow the crowds – they even feed you!
Whilst there isn’t that much else to see in Amritsar, and the Golden Temple is very much the highlight in this part of India, the nearby border crossing with Pakistan offers a very unusual display of transborder pomp as the two sides send in their tallest, most curly moustached soldiers to goose step at each other as they slowly lower their flags before the border closes . . . yes, super random. Easy to get there – just get a taxi for the Attari-Wagah border and try to get their an hour before the start to get into the grandstand (yes, they have a grandstand). Ceremony starts 530pm except for 430pm in winter
Varanasi feels like a microcosm of India – nowhere else will you see such such a vibrant variety of cultures, religions and colours, yet this is also combined with the thronging masses of people all around you and the rubbish and pollution that comes with such numbers
I loved my time in Varanasi as I just headed off to get lost in amongst the lanes, wandered into incense-heavy temples and looked over the riverside ghats as people washed themselves for ritual, or just washed themselves. I can also understand though why some might find it a bit oppressive. Either way, it feels like one of the must do experiences of this wonderful country
Some simple tips:
Whilst it does have some interesting spots of architecture from the times when Calcutta was the capital of the British Raj, there isn’t much else worth really seeing in Calcutta, unless that is that you want to experience a big Indian city, and then again you can experience that in various places across India. My suggestion is to deprioritise Calcutta for many of the other wonderful experiences across India
