2 days for the famous highlights of Hong Kong

2. Looking out over Hong Kong from Victoria Peak (aka The Peak).  Again, world class views of the the city
TIP – do not take the tram.  It’s cool, but the queues make it less worth it (you could be waiting for hours).  Instead, just take a taxi or bus – it’ll be cheaper, no queue, and gives you a view of both the harbour and the south side of the island

TIP – don’t stay at the Peak Lookout – yes it has great views, but it will also be rammed and just not that pleasant with all the tour groups.  Instead walk the loop around Luggard Road which starts and finishes at the Peak and is very easy to follow (either on google maps or just the maps on the route as you walk).  It has better views than the peak, way way quieter, allows you to see more sides of HK, and lets you take in a bit of nature along the way – there is a hanging Indian Rubber Tree around half way around which is very cool.  Total distance is 3.5km and flat the whole way (bear in mind as well that in summer, it should be a few degrees cooler on the Peak, plus with a nicer breeze than down in the city)

TIP – the main Peak building is just a shopping mall and unnecessarily overpriced.  The Peak Lookout Cafe nearby is far nicer and has a gorgeous outside area in the back that looks over parts of the south side of the island

4. Wandering through the Temple Street Night Market.  Tourist central, but fun

TIP – if on the lookout for some great fakes (handbags, watches, whatever) head instead to the Ladies Market, which is very close to the Temple Street Night Market.  Temple Street Night Market is about the (average) food. Ladies Market is about the fakes

5. Making a trip to Lantau Island to see the Po Lin Monastery and the Big Buddha

TIP – you’ll want to take the cable car from Tung Chung to Ngong Ping (where the Big Buddha is at the top of the mountain).  Views are good and a lot easier than trying to sort a taxi in Tung Chung as Lantau island only has limited taxis (the blue ones).  But it is a lot easier to get taxis / buses back, which may add a bit of variety (and save cost).  The queues at the cable car can be brutal, so make sure to reserve a ticket before you arrive, which will cut your wait time by half

TIP – when there, most people only check out the Buddha, visit the Monastery and generally wander through the weird half theme park that is Ngong Ping.  Make sure to also walk along the Ngong Ping Fun Walk round the back to the Wisdom Path, which is a nice walk and with a slightly unusual prayer monument of stone slabs at the back

So, they are the 5 classic things to do in Hong Kong, and you should probably make sure you check them out in your first trip to HK.  But, I would also highly recommend the following:

6. Take the world’s longest outdoor escalator from Queens Road up through Soho.  The escalator is fun as you move through 800m / 2,600ft (135m / 440ft vertical) and get to look through people’s windows.  But it is also where the best restaurants and bars are in HK.  Make your way up (the escalator goes downhill till 10am and then uphill for the rest of the day), keep an eye out for a place to grab a drink / bite to eat that takes your fancy and then just wander off around this super fun area with its impossibly steep streets

7. If you’re in HK for a Wednesday, you absolutely must go to the races in Happy Valley.  It’s not like races you will have been anywhere else in the world.  Why?  Firstly, the location is super central so very easy to get to (either get a taxi or MTR to Causeway Bay station); secondly the setting is unique with skyscrapers surrounding the entire track; thirdly it is only HK$12 (US$2) entry, so people pop in just for 1 / 2 drinks; finally it has a buzz about it that you won’t find anywhere else – bear in mind that these events happen nearly EVERY WEEK and are full.  Great thing to do if your timings work (see https://racing.hkjc.com/racing/information/english/Racing/Fixture.aspx for the schedule)

8. Take the tram and just watch the city go by.  You’ll see the “dink dinks” slowly snaking through the skyscrapers on HK island.  Don’t need to worry where you get on and off as they follow the MTR lines so easy to get to and from, and only cost HK$2.60 / 30 US cents.  Fun to start on one side of the island and make your way to the other (Kennedy Town on the west, Chai Wan on the east).  Just try to avoid rush hour as will be busy and very . . . very  . . . slow

9.  Visit the South Side of the island.  The North side of HK Island is the famous bit – towering skyscrapers, Victoria Habour, famous views etc etc.  The South side is more chilled out and where the (richer) tend to live.  The most typically visited spot is Stanley, an old fishing village that now has a thriving market.  It will give you a more relaxed vibe and show you a different side to HK.  If already on the south side, I would also really recommend the walk from Repulse Bay to Deep Water Bay.  The views are gorgeous all the way along the water and you can end up on the beaches at either end for some food (I’d recommend Coconuts at Deep Water Bay)

10.  Restaurant buildings.  In a place as built up as HK, having ground floor spots is seriously limited.  So, you find a lot of restaurants tend to group in one tall building.  The idea is that you walk in, take the lift and look at the menu of restaurants.  It’s good fun just going from one floor to the next, poking your nose out to have a look at the place and then moving on to the next.  Not unique to HK (Japan tends to do similar) but nonetheless fun.  Best ones to give a go: Stanley 11 on Stanley Street in Central; California Tower on D’Aguilar Street in Central; Cubus on Hoi Ping Road in Causeway Bay

Broader tips:

• First things first – The Protests.   Whilst you will have seen Hong Kong in the press a lot the past years, mainly with it looking like it’s on fire, HK is not in the slightest bit dangerous.  In fact, it will almost certainly be safer than where you are coming from.  The protests were politically focused with no danger to visitors, and are now over.  A National Security Law was introduced in 2020 that effectively banned all protests.  The new law is immensely sad for many people living in HK who thought HK could be something different to mainland China, but day-to-day life hasn’t materially changed and the experience of visiting certainly hasn’t.  Sack off HK because you aren’t passing through / have other plans.  Don’t rule it out based on fears of safety
• Where to stay.  This completely depends on what you’re looking for and how much you’re prepared to spend.  HK covers all options.  Just 2 tips.  1. HK is a pretty small place.  The key attractions of the harbour, Peak, Markets etc are all within around 30mins subway ride of each other, so you won’t completely screw yourself if a bit out the way.  That being said, for convenience, I’d suggest, on the island staying within the range of Sheung Wan (in the west) and Causeway Bay (in the East) on the Island Line MTR and, for Kowloon, anywhere around Tsim Sha Tsui or Jordan MTR stations. 2. I would in particular recommend staying somewhere in the Soho area, just because the vibe is so much fun, super close to all the highlights and with wonderful variety of restaurants nearby
• Island / Dark Side.  You’ll hear a lot of the expats in HK (known locally as Gwei Los – white ghosts  . . . in a kind of nice way) refer to Kowloon as the dark side.  This is basically anything not on the main island or any of the other islands – so, anything on the mainland – and plays into the joke that typically expats only venture between Soho, Wan Chai and the airport.  Plenty of nice places on the dark side to stay and of course many of HK’s highlights
• Getting around.  Very very easy.  Just get an Octopus Card, which can be used on all public transport and allows you to refund whatever you don’t spend.  MTR (subway) and ferries are very easy to navigate and taxis are everywhere.  Two points on taxis – 1. There are 3 colours.  Red is for the Island and Kowloon (where you will be spending 99% of your time); Green is for the New Territories (basically all the stuff north of the busiest bits of HK); and Blue (only on Lantau Island).  Just stick with the reds.  2. The red taxis will basically take you anywhere, but they are very particular about whether you will be planning to cross Victoria Harbour or not.  Most taxi ranks will make it clear if they are crossing the harbour or not; and if you are flagging a taxi down and want to cross the harbour do a wavy sign with your hands.  Don’t get grumpy with them if they refuse to take you across the harbour – it’s a well known local way of doing things.  Plus they’ll most likely just shout back at you in Cantonese.  Uber is also widely used
• Eating.  There are thousands of restaurants in Hong Kong and the relentless competition keeps the standards high.  Biggest tip is to avoid the super touristy areas (you’ll just get overcharged and be surrounded by fellow tourists) and try Soho (basically everything within a few blocks of the escalator and between Wellington Street and Caine Road) and the restaurant buildings I’ve mentioned in #10 above
• Drinking.  You’ll pretty much find bars everywhere in HK, but the main areas are:
  • Lan Kwai Fung.  Party central and, well, very central.  Basically the area around D’Aguillar Street
  • Wan Chai.  Traditionally known as the seedy end of town and synonymous with hooker bars.  Don’t let that put you off – many of the places are still great fun whether you are looking for ladies of the night or not.  Try Amazonia first for live music and atmosphere
  • Soho – I’ve mentioned it a few times.  Has heaps of bars as well as restaurants
  • Knutsford Terrace on the Kowloon side.  You’ll see far more local HKers here, but still very accommodating for tourists
• Books – its always great to know a little bit about a place before you visit.  To add a bit of fun to the learning, I highly recommend Taipan by James Clevell.  Historical fiction telling the story of the founding of HK, the various Treaties of Nanking that made HK so important and just generally a great read