A walk around some of the key Inca sites near Cusco

Travel Tips

• There are 4 spots to see (in order of walking from Cusco):
  • Saqsaywaman (said like “Sexywoman”) – the largest of the four and with the most religious and military significance.  Also with great views over Cusco and the surrounding valley
  • Q’engo – the zigzag ruin
  • Pukapukara – the Red Fort, or more likely a hunting lodge / guard post.  Great spot to walk around and see the views of the valley
  • Tambomachay – a channel for mountain streams to pass through, hence its name as “Bath of the Incas”
  • If pushed for time – I’d suggest in order of priority aim for Saqsaywaman for sure, Pukapukara next and then the remaining two
• You can get to them simply by walking or by hiring a car.  The walk took us around 5 hours as we stopped for lunch and walked uphill from Cusco to Tambomachay (in hindsight it may have been easier getting a cab to Tambomachay and walking downhill); was around 8km in total and 18,000 steps according to my iPhone (and just grab a taxi back to Cusco).  If you hire a car, you’ll only need I think round 2.5 hours and should be around S70 / US$20.  The walk is probably the most fun as it becomes a bit of a mini adventure as you try short cuts through the Peruvian countryside and stop by in little restaurants for lunch or just a drink
• For tickets, best just buy the Boleto Touristico which covers all the major sites around Cusco and the Sacred Valley (although not Machu Picchu).  S130 / US$37 and lasts 10 days
• Accommodation – for Cusco itself, we stayed in Casa San Blas Hotel Cusco, which I would recommend based on its great location, nice layout / vibe, and the staff who are only too happy to help you
• As with all things in this part of Peru, I’d give a couple of key tips:
  • Altitude – Cusco is 3,300m / 11,150 feet which is high enough to give you altitude sickness (generally feeling a bit like a bad hangover, which isn’t fun).  You can do various things to help, such as take pills (we took Acetazolamide and felt like it helped), drink coca tea, take pain killers to help with the headache etc, but the best way is simply to give your body time to get used to the altitude
  • History of the Inca – the area surrounding Cusco is all about the Inca as the real master builder civilisation so it adds a lot to the trip to know a bit about them.   I’d recommend Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams – an easy read as the author re-creates the rediscovery of Machu Picchu and gives enough detail that any first time visitor would need.  For the broader context on the Incas and the other pre-Columbus American civilisations, I’d highly recommend 1491 by Charles Mann which will, I think, open your eyes to just how sophisticated these civilisations were before the arrival, in particular, of Eurasian diseases
  • Local dogs! – when walking around on your own, just keep an eye out for local dogs.  We had a few run at us from a local farm on one of the roads we were walking along, which can be a little unnerving if not used to dogs.  Just remember not to panic, face them and back away slowly.  If they get super close and you feel like you need to defend yourself, give them a kick or see if you can pick up something nearby like a stick or rocks to scare them off.  I know, not fun – but unlikely they’ll be vicious and better to be prepared

• For tips on other great experiences in Peru and for an itinerary for a trip there, see 2/3 weeks for the highlights of Peru