Diving and staying in guest houses in Raja Ampat

Travel Tips

• Key tip – Raja Ampat really is remote.  Don’t expect roads, shops, cell reception.  Do expect jungle islands, beaches, shacks and world class diving
• The diving:
  • Blue Magic and Sardines Reef were world-class.  We dived in the following dive sites: Sawandarek; Cape Mansuar; The Passage; Koh Reef, Mike’s point; Yenkoranu house reef; Blue Magic; Sardines Reef; Chicken Reef.  They were all great in their own ways, but the ones that stood out for us were Blue Magic and Sardines Reef for the sheer amount of fish and big stuff; and the Passage for the fun of having to move in a drift through the caves
  • Take responsibility for your own dive safety – the local dive guides have grown up diving so are super confident, including confident enough to make quick changes underwater.  Not all guests are though, so my serious advice is to 1. Make sure you check your dive gear thoroughly before each dive; 2. Generally be even more safety conscious that normal.  Typically on other dives, you rely to an extent on the dive guide.  In Raja Ampat, the dive guides have your best interest at heart, it’s just that they aren’t quite as obsessed with safety as other places.  Stay safe, because you’re a long way from the nearest decompression chamber
  • There are actually some great spots just off the shore from the Yenkoranu Homestay.  I’d recommend a couple of days chilling by the beach and heading off with a snorkel
• We stayed for a week at Yenkoranu Homestay on Pulau Kri, which is ideally located.  USD50 for 2 people per night for a private room and all meals.  USD35 per dive, including all equipment and the dive guide.  We had a fantastic time – the food and options for activities were great and the diving and location were simply stunning. We really did leave with some especially fond memories.  But for anyone planning on staying here, and to avoid disappointment after the considerable time and money you will have spent getting there, its worth being aware of two things:
  • 1. It is super basic.  Not backpacker style basic – that is typically air con, wifi, access to amenities like cold drinks, a proper building etc. Instead, the homestay is staying in a wooden / bamboo hut with no fresh water and rats on the roof at night style basic.  You’ll really only use the hut to sleep and spend the rest of the day at the beach, but do be prepared for a bit of a rough night.  That is unless you are the kind of person who enjoys camping / living like the local people of Papua or potentially one of the fortunate who genuinely don’t mind in anyway where you sleep
  • 2. The staff are truly shocking at confirmations of bookings!  Even if you’ve confirmed multiple times by email, phone, on their website and text, be fully prepared to arrive and it be the first they’ve heard from you.  When we arrived off the speed boat at they had no record and we were sent for the first nights to a homestay 10mins down the beach – and considering how remote the place is, it’s not like you have a choice.  We heard of multiple people having these problems, but, to be fair, we went in 2016 so may well have changed since then
  • If you can deal with the two above points – go for it
• Getting there – you will need to fly to Sorong and then get the ferry to Waisai, which only takes 2 hours once it gets going, but give yourself plenty of time for delays leaving.  From Waisai, either have the transport arranged with your homestay or head to the Waisai Tourist Information Centre where there will most likely be a queue of other travellers looking for boats.  There they can put you on one and share the cost (around USD50) between the passengers