One of the classic overland routes across Africa is from the thunderous Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe to the big hitting wildlife meccas of the Masai Mara and Serengeti in Kenya and Tanzania, with the paradise island of Zanzibar and the tranquil Lake Malawi en route. Each of those destinations are world-class experiences that are must sees in their own right. Combined, you have one of the world’s great travel experiences with the added benefit of seeing the wonderful African landscape in-between
That being said, the experience isn’t for everyone. These overland tours are often done in an overland truck which is fantastic for the elevated views with its large windows and their ability to go off-road, but they are not a luxury, comfortable coach or a private 4×4. There is a lot of driving – roughly 80 hours in the truck in total, which also means that you’re hoping that you get a good group of people to enjoy the trip with (typically 20 or so will be on the tour). And of course, there is the camping which, whilst there will naturally be a few nights when you stay in rooms with beds, will form the majority of your evenings. Looking back, it is a truly amazing experience, and I’d highly recommend it for those with heaps of energy for an adventure and maybe a little tight on money . . . dare I say a younger traveler? But I think it all really depends on the individual – we saw a couple in their 70s who embraced it and loved the experience, in comparison there were a group in their 20s who struggled. Looking back, the long hours sat in the truck, a few breakdowns and the camping might just push me over the edge! At the time though, in my late 20s, it was fantastic
To shorten, I’d consider flying from Tanzania to Victoria Falls. The major highlights are really in Kenya (the Masai Mara), Tanzania (The Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Zanzibar) and Victoria Falls. You’ll be doing a lot of driving, so the big stretch between Tanzania / Lake Malawi to Victoria Falls you could maybe skip
Zanzibar – just the name itself conjures up images of exotic lands, distant empires and tropical islands. And the reality actually does a good job of living up the expectation. The highlight is obviously Stone Town with its rich mix of influences from India, Arabia, Africa and Europe shinning through in winding alleyways with carved doors, lattice balconies, spices and museums showcasing this fascinating place’s history. But there are also some other things to do that surprised us and are a must if planning a visit
In 1875, Christian missionaries tried to create a utopian town in what at the time must have felt like the heart of the African continent. Naming it Livingstonia after David Livingston, the embodiment of the pioneer African coloniser, they originally settled at Cape Maclear on the south shores of Lake Malawi, but were forced to abandon the settlement because of malaria and instead looked for a spot further up in the mountains. The spot they found not only avoided malaria, but, because it was up in the mountains on a plain that had a different climate, provided farming opportunities. The missionaries had indeed found the right sight for their vision of Livingstonia utopia
Today, Livingstonia still has that vibe with its tree-lined streets, cooler climate, former colonial buildings such as the church and museum, and separation from the main road that hugs the west shore of Lake Malawi. More than anything, it just feels like a trip to what another future of Africa could have looked like, and a very pleasant detour from the usual spots in Malawi
To get there – you’ve basically got the option of walking from the lake (15km / 9.5miles, will take around 3.5hours and an elevation gain of 850m / 2800ft) or driving up the very windy and bumpy road (takes around an hour). My suggestion is to do a combo of both – get a ride up to the Mushroom Farm Ecolodge, which breaks up the ascent so you only have 7km / 4.5miles and 1.5hours with 220m / 720ft of incline to get to Livingstonia. From here, you can check out the views, the waterfall and the farmland around you without the uphill slog – bear in mind it gets very hot in Malawi!
Where to stay – the Mushroom Farm Ecolodge is the obvious option as it could break up your journey to Livingstonia, but I’d also highly recommend staying by the lake in one of the various campsites nearby. We camped for 2 nights there and you also have the option of rooms available at places like the Hakuna Matata Hostel. It felt quite magical being able to wake up and kayak around this quiet section of lake and a bit of a must if heading up to Livingstonia
Vietnam is a wonderful country to spend 3 weeks working your way through. Hill tribes tucked in misty mountains surrounded by emerald green rice terraces and long palm-lined beaches; vibrant cities riding the wave of a country booming alongside idyllic small towns miraculously unaffected by the Vietnam War or commercialisation; and several truly world-class experiences within picture perfect landscapes that look like they were carved from a fairy tale. Its also still super cheap and easy to travel through based on its long thin shape and the established bus routes that make hoping on and off sleeper buses simple
The below itinerary will allow you to see the highlights of Vietnam over 3 weeks using the bus network, without being super rushed and without having to double back on yourself other than using Hanoi as a hub for the experiences in the north
There is so much about this trip that should place it high on anyone’s itinerary for Vietnam – the misty rice terraces around Sapa with stunning vistas of just about every shade of green imaginable; the hill tribes that are very distinct from the rest of Vietnam and even mountain to mountain; the train journey up through the mountains that gives a break from the usual tourist buses that form the backbone of any Vietnam trip; and the access to this pure mountainous jungle that surrounds you at all times
My biggest tip is to jump on a motorbike (if you can’t ride, it is super easy to arrange for someone to take you) and head off across the valleys to see all of this. Having the rice terraces and mountains zip by amongst the small hill villages on a motorbike is the most “Vietnam” experience I felt in all of my trips there and is not to be missed
Smaller tips:
- I went in July time, which was still fun but be aware that it is likely to be hammering it down at this time of year which restricts the views and the hikes you can do
- Sapa is nice enough and it’s lovely to see the various hill tribe outfits and the pride that the local people have in them, but the real highlight is heading into the valleys and mountains to see the villages and natural scenery
- Renting a motorbike or a driver to go with you should be super cheap – USD5 a day
- To get to Sapa its a no-brainer to take the overnight train, rather than the bus which takes up to 10 hours. Just make sure to book the best cabins – the basic cabins / seats in trains in Vietnam may not meet your expectations of comfort (or cleanliness)
- And for ideas on how a trip to Sapa can fit into an itinerary for experiencing the highlights of Vietnam, see this entry A 3 week itinerary for the highlights of Vietnam
I found Hoi An and its surrounding area the highlight of Vietnam. It has a UNESCO-listed historic old town that miraculously avoided destruction in the war and even more miraculously has still largely avoided the over commercialisation of the modern day; its An Bang beach is beautiful and has a truly gorgeous bay setting; there are 500+ master tailors ready to make anything you want cheap as chips; and the other UNESCO-listed ancient Cham ruins of My Son within an hours drive
Make sure to give yourself at least 2 days, ideally 3 to really enjoy this place
Hue is the former capital of Vietnam where the emperors used to rein and where you can now roam around the relics of the old Citadel and Imperial Enclosure in what is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Whilst many people rave about its tranquility and range of things to see, it can come across as a bit dull. Maybe it’s the difficulty to bring to life the context of what it must have been like, and maybe the sheer scale of the bombing in the Vietnam War had unfortunately destroyed too many of the old buildings, but either way I think some of the other sights in Vietnam are in a different league
Nice to see the elephants wandering around the old ruins though
Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon is one of the great South East Asian cities and brimming with energy as the epicenter of Vietnam’s boom. The city itself is more about wandering around enjoying the food and soaking up the way of life as the thousands of motorbikes swerve and swarm impossibly round you. But also make sure you make time to take a boat trip around the Mekong Delta to see the way people work, eat, sleep and live on the river, and the nearby Cu Chi Tunnels to see just how claustrophobic it must have been for the fighters in the Vietnam War
A short entry for HCMC, but to see how it can fit into an itinerary for experiencing the highlights of Vietnam, see this entry A 3 week itinerary for the highlights of Vietnam
The area around the Li River by Yanhshou has some of the most beautiful picture-perfect scenery in the world, let alone China. But, as with all things in China, it is usually extremely busy. It’s hard to avoid the crowds and boats on the river itself, but the two ways I’d suggest to feel a bit more a serene experience away from the thousands of fellow tourists are:
- Jump on a bike (can rent in various places, but Bike Asia was good) and head off to cycle around the surrounding areas of Yangshou and through some of the dreamy valleys
- Stay in a place either on the outskirts or outside of Yangshou (the town is very commercialised and busy in placed)
Don’t let the crowded town put you off though. The combination of cycling the valleys and drifting down the river is one of the premier experiences in China
Extra tip – see if you can start start your trip in Guilin as it is one of the prettier Chinese cities. There is also the day trip from here to the beguiling Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces (travel entry here –The Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces)
Travelling in Burma (Myanmar) is a bit like being in a parallel world – like the rest of the world went one direction and Burma just took the other turn on the highway. Whilst that may be starting to change a little bit as the country opens up more, you can be sure that there will be continued political swings that keep Burma as one of the countries firmly in the “unusual” bucket for travelers. This, plus its series of genuinely world class attractions, makes it a superb travel destination for a 2 week trip
Burma for most people is all about the 4 key highlights of Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake. All are definitely worth seeing and will form the core of any trip you make there. Bagan, with its world-renowned temples spread in their thousands across the plain, and Inle Lake, with its stunning mirror effect and serene villages on stilts, are arguably the highlights, with Mandalay and Yangon as interesting cities that you need to fly into, but well worth the visit. I’ve included them below in a 2 week itinerary that won’t be rushed whilst also making sure you get the most out of your time here
I’ve written below some further travel tips for travelling around Burma, but my 2 biggest tips are:
- #1 Is it safe? You will naturally have seen in the news Burma very often flaring up with the latest crisis and the story of the country is truly a sad one considering the repression in particular of the ethic minorities and continued belligerence of the military junta. But, from a tourist point of view, such changes have not in the slightest stopped the country as it opens up more and more to overseas visitors. Whilst it may sound like a country to avoid based on headlines, thousands more come to the country each year than the year before and flare ups occur only in the remote areas foreigners are not allowed in, and still with no tourists ever having come to harm because of the troubles. There are far more countries in the world with far more dangers that receive far more tourists on a regular basis
- #2 A feeling of real Burma. Consider wandering off the beaten track just a little to see the real country that has been surprisingly untouched by the tourism wave of the 4 main sites. One of the best adventures I’ve experienced was the 6 day trip down the Irrawaddy River by ferry in Northern Burma from Myitkyina (or you can start in Bhamo / Katha to reduce the time) to Mandalay. Breathtaking mountainous jungle vistas, the chance to see the real local villages along the mighty Irrawaddy River, and the old echoes of the former colonial past. A truly great travel experience and I’ve included the details in the travel entry – Exploring Northern Burma by train and ferry from Myitkyina, via Bhamo and Katha to Mandalay
